Tyson, who, along with her partner Vivian Joiner, honored Stephanie’s grandmother’s memory in two Winston- Salem, North Carolina, restaurants and in the cookbook Soul Food Odyssey. I owe inspiration for this modern interpretation to Stephanie L. The most common method was to simply add enough all-purpose flour to “tighten up” the mixture, as Sheila Ferguson explained in Soul Food: Classic Cuisine from the Deep South,“until Dad says, ‘it’s no longer juicy.’” Some soaked bread in the salmon liquor from the can some added mashed boiled potatoes or cheese, or cornmeal, or dried bread or cracker crumbs. Many black cooks who had migrated out of the South learned myriad makeshift ways to hold the canned fish mixture together. Today, salmon croquettes are a staple on soul food breakfast menus.īut Cates wasn’t the only cook to take a detour with this beloved dish. She rolled her flat cakes in crushed cornflakes for extra crunch, called them “salmon patties,” and served them perched on a slice of hot toast. In her book of recipes, collected from the ladies of the Los Angeles Negro Culinary Art Club, a luxurious combination of eggs and cream kept the fish mixture bound together during cooking. When I read Beatrice Hightower Cates’s 1936 Eliza’s Cook Book, I was surprised to find a recipe for salmon croquettes that refused to conform to a “heritage” mixture-that is, it didn’t have a roux-based white sauce to hold the croquettes together.
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